It’s that time again. They are in the farmer’s markets in small batches in California, and my mother-in-law left some at my door the other day. It’s hard work. You have to peel off the outer shell and take out the little pods. Boil them for three to six minutes, depending on their size (smaller is better). When they’re ready, drain and put into an ice-cold water bath to stop the cooking. Then you actually have to peel their outer layer off again and only the inner green meat is edible. They are worth the work if you just add sea salt, butter or olive oil. At Chez Panisse they always smash them and put them on crostini with fresh ricotta. So we ate them for breakfast this week with a poached egg!